Cute Little Crochet Gift Pouches

For Christmas this year, I decided to make all of my knitting pals personalized stitch markers.  I wanted to gift them in something that could act as wrapping, and as a purposeful holder for their markers, as well.  I was looking through Sasha Kagan's Crochet Inspiration and found a pretty little stitch pattern that had both an interest texture and a slightly lacy look.  It just seemed perfect for using to make little gift pouches.

Over the years I have amassed a collection of crochet cotton that I am not sure I will ever find enough uses for.  Some I have purchased, and much has been donated.  I have used it for other gifts, like mini granny square bookmarks.  And I am currently creating an organizer for my new purse with some of it (if the organizer works out, you may see a post for the pattern in the future).  With the multitude of colours in my stash, I was able to make a different coloured pouch for each friend.

I've just finished making seven in total (Phew!  Just in time for Christmas!).  They work up quickly, and I think they're really cute.  As a Christmas gift to anyone out there reading this blog, I am including the pattern for these little pouches free in this post.

Cute Little Crochet Gift Pouches

MATERIALS:

• #10 crochet cotton OR #8 perle cotton (for a silkier looking pouch)
• 2.25mm (US 1/B) crochet hook

SIZE:  Approx. 6cm (2 3⁄8") wide and 8cm (3 1⁄8") high  [NOTE:  #8 perle cotton        will make a slightly smaller pouch]

TO MAKE:

Using 2.25mm (US 1/B) crochet hook, chain 50.

Foundation row (WS):  Skip one chain, then sc into each remaining chain across (49 sts).  Ch 3, turn.

Row 1 (RS):  *Skip 1 sc, dc into next 3 sc, insert hook from front to back into skipped sc, yo and draw through a long loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook; rep from * to last sc, dc into last sc.  Ch 1, turn.

Row 2:  Sc into each st across.  Ch 3, turn.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 nine times.  Then, work Row 1 once more.  Fasten off.

Finishing:

Fold piece in half with right-sides together.  Sew or crochet seam along side and bottom.  Weave in ends, and turn right-side out.

For ties, work two chains, each approx. 25cm (10") long.  Thread one chain in and out through the holes created by the 9th repeat of Row 1, starting and ending at the seam.  Repeat with the other chain, starting and ending at the fold on the opposite side of the seam.  Weave tails down chain about 2.5cm (1"), then tie ends together.

Enjoy one for yourself, or fill with goodies and gift to your friends!  Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

PLIA

PLIA is the latest creation for my occasional three week Knitting for Beginners class.  I wanted to design something that would knit up quick, and this cowl does.  Any knitter who hasn't just picked up needles for the first time could work it up in an evening, maybe two.

The look I was going for was a thick, cosy cowl with multiple personalities.  I wanted it to go from the typical big rolled cowl like you would see on the neck of a sweater, to something deep enough that you could pull it up over your face when needed.

Something you could cuddle down into.

Then it struck me!  What if there was some way to pin it into a more asymmetrical fold?  Something to style it up a notch.

Enter the two-sided button.  This an old trick that works something like a cufflink.  You can have a large WOW! button on one side, and then a stylish, but smaller button on the other side which can pop right through the stitches of your knitting.

The result is a multitude of different looks!  Depending on the jacket you are wearing, your hairstyle, your mood, whatever, you can choose the cowl style you want to go with it, all from one project.

And because this cowl is reversible, with the two different textured sides shown above, that's two times the multitude of different looks.

You can even wear it as a snood.

Interested in knitting this project?  Here is some helpful information.

SIZE:  Finished circ. approx. 66cm (26"), with approx. depth of 21cm (8¼").

GAUGE:  8 sts and 8 rows = 10cm (4") in Garter Stitch on 12mm (17US) needles

MATERIALS:  

• 1skein Ushya by Mirasol [approx. 105m (114yds)/100g]
• 12mm (17US) circ. needle OR 1 pair 12mm (17US) needles
• 1 medium-sized button AND 1 large-sized decorative button (optional)

(NOTE: Instructions are provided for working this cowl in the round, or flat and seamed.)
Have fun playing with this cowl the create different looks!

BOSIE

I love mittens!  Gloves may allow for more dexterity, but my fingers are still cold.  Only mittens truly keep my hands warm.  And, if you're going to knit mittens, why not have an attractive pair?  With BOSIE I have included three cable variations to choose from to embellish your mittens.  They range in difficulty from easy to more advanced, each given a rating in the pattern.

Above is Hugs and Kisses, my favourite.  It is the most technical cable in the bunch, but definitely doable once you understand basic cables.  I love the whimsical quality of this mitten.

The Classic Cable is rated easy.  It is the most basic cable, but it still makes a very pretty mitten.  The look is more that of elegant simplicity (and yes, I do think mittens can be elegant).

Last, but not least, the Wave Cable creates a more contemporary cabled mitten.  The cable wends its way up the mitten like a snaking river.  Its clean lines speak to a more modern sensibility.

Like the Wave Cable mitten, you could opt for a traditional Aran colour for your mittens, but playing with colour can be a lot of fun.  My only recommendation would be to stay away from very dark colours, like black and navy.  The colour needs to be light enough to show the shadows of the cable twists.  Otherwise, all your hard work would be for not.

Interested in knitting this project?  Here is some helpful information.

SIZE:  Teen/woman's small: 18cm (7") hand circ.

        Woman's medium: 19cm (7½") hand circ.

        Woman's large/man's small 20.5cm (8") hand circ.

GAUGE:  20 sts = 10cm (4") in Stocking Stitch on 4.5mm (7US) needles

MATERIALS:  

• 100g/approx. 200 m ball/skein of medium weight yarn
• 1 set 4.5mm (7US) dpn needles
• 1 stitch holder OR waste yarn
• 4 stitch markers

With so many options, you will find a mitten to suit anyone!

Inspiration 2

Went to the Festival of Crafts tonight in search of inspiration, and definitely found it in the artwork of Olga Cuttell.  I couldn't decide on a print, or maybe a pendent, so I got her 2013 calendar, where I can admire not one, but twelve of her beautifully whimsical pieces.

The cover print is one of my favourites!  Sorry, the photo is a bit yellow.  The lighting at this time of night is not the best for photography, but I wanted to share right away.  You will get a much better look at this print, and others, on her website.  Checking out the work of other artists is great for getting the creative juices flowing, and gets you seeing things from a different perspective.

CIRRUS

This versatile, button closure cowl is the product of some serious brainstorming for a class idea.  I was posed with teaching a condensed version of Knitting for Beginners.  The class usually runs four weeks, put I was asked to teach a three week version.  The usual projects wouldn't do for this time frame, but I still wanted the students to get their basics, all in one project.  This would be tricky!

Driving home one night, the clouds in the sky were set in ever narrowing waving lines.  It suddenly struck me that the answer to this dilemna I had been given might be found in the Feather and Fan Stitch.  The pattern stitches used in this project are modifications of the ever popular Feather and Fan Stitch, which incorporate knits, purls, increase, and decrease to create a feminine, textured cowl.  So, as intricate as this cowl may look, if you have your basics, it is totally doable.

  As the fabric is reversible, it can be worn just as a round cowl, or twisted as a mobius. Another part of the versatility comes from the multiple buttons, which don’t have to be buttoned in order or buttoned all the way.

I-chords create the button loops.

And, the buttons nestle in the soft curves of the cast-off edge.

If you would like to substitute with a yarn other than Berroco’s Voyage, be sure to choose a chainette yarn, as they have very unique properties that have been taken into consideration in this design (this is the reason for the seemingly small gauge for such large needles).  However, if you can get your hands on the original yarn used in this design, you won't be disappointed.  It is so lofting, soft, and warm, it feels like a cloud around your neck!

Interested in knitting this project?  Here is some helpful information.

SIZE:  Ladies: close fitting [52cm (20½") circumference], and draped fit [70cm (27½") circumference]

GAUGE:  16 sts/24 rows = 10cm (4") in Garter Wave Stitch on 9mm (13US) needles

MATERIALS:  

• 2 skeins of Voyage by Berroco for both the close fitting and draped fit cowls
• 1 pair 9mm (13US) needles
• 1 set 9mm (13US) dpn
• 4 medium buttons

Play around with the multiple ways to wear this cowl, and make it your own!

Cowachin Sweater Hem: Part 2

Last week I showed you some pictures of a custom Cowachin sweater I made.  It was requested that the cuffs and bottom edge be hemmed, rather than working them in ribbing.  This is how I did it:

A big concern was the thickness of the yarn.  With a typical sweater, the thickness of yarn used in a Cowachin sweater would be knit on 10mm (15US) needles.  For a traditional Cowachin sweater, this same yarn is knit with 7.5-8mm (11US, and there is no equivalent for the 7.5mm is US needle sizing) needles for the main body.  So, you can see that it is worked up with a very dense fabric.  Doubling that fabric in a hem was no going to work.  This was dealt with by thinning the yarn used in the fold-up portion of the hem.  Typically, the yarn for these sweaters comes in a 5-6 ply, which has not been spun.  To thin the fold-up portion, I just peeled off 3 plies as I knit, so that I was knitting with only 2 plies (I was using Briggs and Little Country Roving, which is a 5 ply).  

Using the larger of the two recommended needle sizes in you pattern, cast on the required number of stitches using just 2 plies.  Work 5 rows of Stocking Stitch, starting and ending with knit rows.

Now, re-incorporate the missing plies to bring the thickness back up to that of the original yarn (5 or 6 plies, depending on the yarn used).  Next, knit one row on the wrong side of your work, using the full thickness of yarn.  This will create the fold line, seem in the centre of the above photo.  Continuing to work with all plies, work 6 rows of Stocking Stitch, starting with a knit row.  The fabric hanging from your needle should look like that pictured above.

The hem connecting row comes next.

Hold the bottom edge of your fabric, and look for the loops created by your cast on.  In the photo, the loops have been pulled out a bit to make them more visible.  I used a Backward Loop Cast On for this particular project, in order to get more visible, easy to find loops.  But, this technique is possible with any standard cast on.

Insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle, then the very first loop of the cast-on edge.  (NOTE: It is important to be sure you have the actual first loop, or you will run short at the end of row)  Now, knit the stitch and the loop together.  This will start to connect the fold-up portion of the hem to the body of the sweater.  Insert the right-hand needle into the next stitch in line on the left-hand needle, and pick up the next cast-on loop, knitting the two together.  Continue across the row in this manner, until hem in totally connected and the row is complete. 

This is a wrong side view of the finished hem.  The only thing left to do is to knit enough rows in Stocking Stitch to reach the same depth as the ribbing in the original pattern.  This will depend on the specific instructions in the pattern you are using.  At this point, you would just start following the charted portion of your instructions.

Knit the back, both fronts, and both sleeves in this manner.  Knit collar, as in instructions, and sew together as usual.  The end result will be a traditional Cowachin sweater, with a bomber jacket feel.

Cowachin Sweater Hem: Part 1

As I posted some time ago, I was working on a daunting custom knit project of a massive Cowachin sweater.  On top of the large size and added length, the customer wanted hems, instead of ribbing, on the cuffs and bottom edge.  Here are some pics of the results.

I thought the finished look was quite impressive.  It is much more like a bomber jacket, than a traditional Cowachin-style sweater.  And, it looked really good on the customer, too.

Come back for Part 2, where I will explain how to create this finish yourself!

Inspiration 1

One of the goals of this blog is to inspire.  So, I have decided that when something strikes me as inspiring, be it a photo, a quote, or whatever, I will post it to share with all of you.  Here in Calgary, we have suddenly been plugged into a full on winter.  I have always found snow, in all forms, very inspiring --  snowflakes, how snow takes imprints, how it settles on and clings to objects...

JAZZ

This is a fun little slouch tam, with a lot going for it.  The Brioche pattern in the main body not only gives texture and interest to the look of the hat, but it works up a thicker, loftier fabric.  This equals greater warm!

It has only a slight slouch, for those who don't want to go too big, but are wanting somethings other than the typical toque.  The green version was knit in Cascade 220 for the main colour, and Punta Yarns Mericash Thousand Colours for the multi-coloured contrast.  The Cascade 220 has quite a bit of body, so the hat's slouch has only moderate drape.

However, this grey and pink version has considerably more drape in the slouch.  This comes from the two incredibly soft yarns used in its construction.  Pear Tree Yarn's Super Soft 8ply in Nut was used for the main yarn, and Malabrigo Worsted in Vetiver is the contrast in the Brioche portion of this hat.  (NOTE: When using a yarn as soft as this for your main colour, if you have a smaller head you may want to knit the ribbing with a ½ size smaller needle.)

Besides the change it drape, the Malabrigo Worsted also gives a different look to the Brioche.  Being a single ply yarn, it tends to puff in this stitch pattern, which I really love.  It adds even more to the 3-dimensional quality of the Brioche.  The main body of this version is sooooo soft and squishy!

But no matter what yarn you choose, the back comes together to look something like a giant carnation.  And if you aren't big on colour, this pattern would make a great single colour, textured hat by knitting the whole thing in one solid coloured yarn.

  One more thing to note.  Although you could just use your favourite cast-on method, I introduced the Tubular Cast-on in this pattern to give this hat a cleaner, more professional looking edge.  If you should choose to try out this method, you will find photo tutorials in my two previous posts, Tubular Cast-on: Part 1 and Tubular Cast-on : Part 2.

Interested in knitting this project?  Here is some helpful information.

SIZE:  Average Ladies [54cm-56cm (21-22")] 

GAUGE:  15 sts/19 rows = 10cm (4") in 2 Colour Half Brioche Stitch on 5mm (8US) needles

MATERIALS:  

• approx. 80m (90 yds) hand-dyed or multi-colouered DK or worsted weight yarn for contrast yarn in Brioche portion of hat
• approx. 90m (100 yds) worsted weight yarn for main colour yarn in ribbing and background of Brioche portion of hat
• approx. 1.5-2m (1½-2 yds) of contrasting colour waste yarn
• 4.5mm (7US) - 40cm (16 inch) circ. needle
• 5mm (8US)  - 40cm (16 inch) circ.needle
• 1 set 5mm (8US) dpn
• stitch marker

This is a very versatile pattern in that by changing colours and types of yarns used, you can create any number of different looks and personalities.  So have some fun with it!

Tubular Cast-on: Part 2

In Tubular Cast-on: Part 1 you got set up with the provisional cast-on, Crochet Cast-on. Now, onto the actual Tubular Cast-on....

Join in your main colour yarn and, starting with a knit row, work 3 rows in Stocking stitch with needles one full size larger than the one used for the ribbing in your chosen pattern (NOTE: If using my pattern, JAZZ , the needle sizes to be used for the Tubular Cast-on are given in the pattern).  Now, transfer all stitches to the actual needle size used for the ribbing in your chosen pattern. 

With the purl side facing, purl the first stitch on the left-hand needle.

Now, insert the right-hand needle, from top to bottom, into the first main colour yarn loop.  It is kind of buried a bit in the Crochet Cast-on.  The more contrast you have between your waste yarn in the provisional cast-on, and your main colour yarn, the easier in will be to find these loops.

Transfer this new stitch to the left-hand needle.  You want to place it on the needle so that the lead leg of the stitch is at the front of the needle, as pictured above.

Now you just have to knit this stitch.

Continue across the row, purling one stitch, then knitting the main colour loop from the provisional cast-on, until one stitch remains on the left-hand needle.  This stitch is the "plus1" that you added to the cast-on count from your pattern.  Being careful not to twist your stitches, join in the round with a p2tog -- that is, purl together the last unworked stitch with the first stitch you worked in forming the Tubular Cast-on.  Now, work in 1x1 ribbing for the length indicated in your pattern.

Finally, remove your provisional cast-on.  If you used the Crochet Cast-on, this step is very quick and easy.  Start by undoing the knot from the end of the Crochet Cast-on.  Now, it is a simple matter of pulling on that tail of yarn.  Above, you can see a loop from the Crochet Cast-on and the waste yarn sitting under three loops of main colour yarn.

As you continue to pull, the waste yarn will sit under more and more loops of main colour yarn.  Keep pulling until you have pulled the waste yarn right out of the ribbing.  Don't worry!  Those loops of main colour yarn you see are no longer live stitches.  They are the loops you were picking up out of the Crochet Cast-on and knitting.

Sit back and admire the beautiful, professional edge you have just created on your   soon-to-be hat!

PS: This cast-on is also great for other projects with 1x1 ribbed edges, like mittens.

Tubular Cast-on: Part 1

One of the most often asked questions when I'm teaching is, "What is the best cast-on to use?".  My answer is always the same, as I feel there is no one "best" cast-on. Different cast-ons look, feel, and respond differently and the best cast-on is the one that best suits your project.  There are cast-ons like the long-tail and knit-on that will do you for most projects, but why not branch out and try something new.

One of my favourite technique books is Nancie M. Wiseman's The Knitter's Book of Finishing Techniques.  She not only provides great explanations for multiple cast-on methods, but also provides you with a list of pros and cons with regards to where best to use said cast-on.  This is where I was introduced to the Tubular Cast-on.  I have incorporated it into one of my hat designs (JAZZ, which I hope to have online for sale soon -- stay tuned!) as a way to get a very clean, professional looking edge on the brim.  You should give it a try some time.  I guaranty that you will not be disappointed with the results.

To start, I use a Crochet Cast-on (but, you could use any other waste yarn provisional cast-on if you have one you like).  You will need a knitting needle one size bigger than the size you will use to work the ribbed hat brim in, plus an equivalent sized crochet hook.

Make a slip knot with your yarn and place it on the crochet hook.  Now, tension your yarn in the left hand and hold the knitting needle in the left hand, as well.  Be sure to have the yarn positioned under the knitting needle, as shown above.

Now, reach over your knitting needle with the crochet hook, and come under the yarn to wrap the crochet hook.  Draw this wrap of yarn through the slip knot on the crochet hook.  You will now have one stitch cast onto your knitting needle.

Move your yarn around the point of your knitting needle to get it back into position under the needle, as shown above.  You are now ready to cast-on another stitch.  Once more, reach over your knitting needle with the crochet hook, and come under the yarn to wrap the crochet hook (see second photo).  Draw this wrap of yarn through the stitch on the crochet hook.  You will now have two stitches cast onto your knitting needle.

Continue in this manner until you have half the total number of stitches required for your hat, plus 1 (NOTE: In the pattern for JAZZ, the correct count for the provisional cast-on has been given).  Break your yarn, and draw the end through the stitch on the crochet hook.  You've now learned how to do a Crochet Cast-on.  Give it a try in any project where a provisional cast-on in called for.  It is also very easy to remove, as I will show in Tubular Cast-on: Part 2.  The next post will go over the workings of the actual Tubular Cast-on, so see you then.

Toothbrush stitch markers

I have a tendency towards keeping things that I feel show some potential for future use. Now don't get me wrong, as I am in no way a hoarder.  I just hate throwing things in the garbage that aren't obvious garbage.  So, if somethings isn't obvious garbage, can't be recycled, and shows definite potential, I try to re-use it in some way.  That 'way' is not always apparent at the time, but out of the blue it will hit me like a lightening bolt when least expected.  I always like to show off these revelations to those in my life who think I'm a bit nuts to keep these things that they feel are just garbage.  And, this one I will share with you, too.

Case in point:  I use a Philips Sonicare electric toothbrush.  For anyone else who uses one of these brushes, you know that every time you purchase replacement heads, they come with a pouch of coloured rings that snap onto the bottom of the head to identify who in your family each toothbrush head belongs to.  These soft, rubbery rings do not, of course, have a recycling symbol, and you can never use them all.  But, being soft, rubbery rings, they somehow showed some hidden potential, at least in my eyes.  So, I've been keeping them, and I've amassed a decent sized collection, not really knowing what I would ever do with them.......until now!

I've been working on a sweater for a friend (pictured above), that is knit in Sirdar's Big Softie.  Not being a big knitter of chunky yarns, I don't really have the proper accessories.  I managed to find a 10mm (15US) needle to use that was part of a low cost inter-changable kit I was given years ago.  My stitch markers, however, were not quite big enough.  They would fit on the needle, but only barely, so it really slowed down the knitting.  NO FUN :(   Then, the lightening bolt! -- "Those soft, rubbery rings from my toothbrush might just be the right size for using as stitch markers on my large needles.".  And, they were!  They are working brilliantly!  Added bonus:  all those colours they come in make it so I can use one for marking the beginning of my round, and another for delineating the lace panel stitches.

So, (if you happen to use a Sonicare) you too can have toothbrush stitch markers ;)

DAHLIA

DAHLIA is the 'worked-in-the-round' counterpart to DAHLIA On 2. The ideal way to knit a hat is in the round, as there is no sewing when your knitting is done, and no seam to worry about when putting your hat on.  This design still uses the floral inspired crown to show off how 2-togethers and slip, slips can  play off each other to create unique shaping details.  And, just like with DAHLIA On 2, part of the coziness of this hat comes from the  generous slouch, which captures a nice, warm pocket of air.  When knit with a yarn made of baby llama, you still have one deliciously toasty accessory!

Interested in knitting this project?  Here is some helpful information.

SIZE:  Average Ladies [51cm-56cm (20-22")] --

NOTE:  The generous size range in one hat is the result of the extra long ribbed band, which will confidently hold this hat on a smaller head as easily as it will on a larger head.

GAUGE:  18 sts/24 rows = 4" in Stocking Stitch on 5mm (8US) needles

MATERIALS:  2 skeins of Miski by Mirasol

                          1 pair 4.5mm (7US) -
                             40cm (16 inch) circ. needle

                          1 pair 5mm (8US)  -
                             40cm (16 inch) circ.needle

                          1 set 5mm (8US) dpn

Mirasol's Miski has long been a favorite yarn for me.  The drape of baby llama is the perfect compliment to this design.  A yarn with alpaca would work equally well.  Although a wool or blend could be used for this project as well, please note that it will effect the drape of the hat's slouch.

Knitting & Knitting

I love knitting.  I truly do.  There are times though, unfortunately, in my line of work that I don't always enjoy it.  Take custom knitting.  Those of us who do this type of knitting, which I occasionally do to help out my boss at the LYS I work at, sometimes get ourselves into projects that are not very fun.  The most recent one being a very large, specially designed Cowachin sweater.  It will be very satisfying to complete it, but in the meantime my hands and wrists are killing me.  The really sad part is that not only do I have very little time left over, but also no energy to work on my own project, which I am loving.  It is a beautiful lace and cables cardi by Kim Hargreaves.  I'll have to post later with a photo.

DAHLIA On 2

This cozy hat was developed for the Knitting for Beginners class I teach. I wanted a project that used both  knit and purl (which the students had learned at the beginning of the class), and teach them a variety of shaping techniques.  The floral inspired crown shows off how 2-togethers and slip, slips can play off each other to create unique shaping details.  Part of the coziness comes from the  generous slouch, which captures a nice, warm pocket of air.  Add to that a yarn made of baby llama, which is several times warmer than wool, and you have one deliciously toasty accessory!  

Interested in knitting this project?  Here is some helpful information.

SIZE:  Average Ladies [51cm-56cm (20-22")] --

NOTE:  The generous size range in one hat is the result of the extra long ribbed band, which will confidently hold this hat on a smaller head as easily as it will on a larger head.

GAUGE:  18 sts/24 rows = 4" in Stocking Stitch on 5mm (8US) needles

MATERIALS:  2 skeins of Miski by Mirasol

                          1 pair 4.5mm (7US) needles

                          1 pair 5mm (8US) needles

                          tapestry needle

Mirasol's Miski has long been a favorite yarn for me.  The drape of baby llama is the perfect compliment to this design.  A yarn with alpaca would work equally well.  Although a wool or blend could be used for this project as well, please note that it will effect the drape of the hat's slouch.

Welcome to The Tangled Yarn

Today I am launching my website The Tangled Yarn.  I'm so excited to finally have a place to connect with the huge community of creative people beyond my own city and LYS.  And, I'm looking forward to sharing my thoughts, inspirations, patterns,...  This website is still under construction, but I will be working hard to get it all together (I'm very fortunate to have a blog-knowledgable friend to help me out).